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Villa San Michele: Florence's Country Escape

Villa San Michele: Florence's Country Escape

Travel
August 22, 2024
Written By
Laurie Melchionne
Photography
Villa San Michele, A Belmond Hotel, Florence
Nestled in Fiesole’s fragrant countryside, Villa San Michele, A Belmond Hotel, is Tuscany’s crowning glory of Renaissance resorts. Bathed in the light of the sunny Arno Valley and within eyeshot of Florence, this monastery-turned-five-star hotel features 42 rooms and 25 suites. Accommodations sprawl across private gardens, secluded flower-hugged terraces, wall-sized stone fireplaces, and even a heated sunken pool.

The list blossoms on. This 15th-century property, once headquartered by Napoleon Bonaparte, also boasts a main swimming pool, fitness center and wellness sanctuary—not to mention three on-site restaurants—and pays homage to Italian architecture, Tuscan gastronomy, and a devoted preservation of Catholic heritage.

The Tuscan Time Capsule: The Monastery

Eat, sleep, and revel near the old monastery, the love child of Italy’s greatest creatives: architect Michele del Barba, stone master Romolo Ferrucci, painter Santi di Tito, and—of course—Michelangelo himself. In the 14th century, the property was owned by the Davanzati family, today known for Palazzo Davanzati in Florence. The family donated the land to an order of Franciscan monks and by 1600, ignited the project to expand, renovate, and design the facade that still stands. It was during this renovation that Michelangelo designed the front facade. On display for marveling guests, Giovanni Davanzati’s 1599 signature of approval is a living glimpse of the hotel’s storied beginnings.

Mounted at the entrance is Davanzati’s glorious legacy: the family crest and an inscription carved in Latin: “To God and to Saint Michael. Niccolò de’ Davanzati had erected in 1411. Giovanni de’ Davanzati enlarged 1600.” With this and the on-site Church of Villa San Michele alla Doccia that includes Nicodemo Ferrucci’s 1642 fresco of the Last Supper and a 15th-century fresco of the Ascension of Our Lord, Catholic imagery is synonymous with the villa’s identity. Is it any wonder that the monks chose this special place to worship?

Luxurious Accommodations

While the grounds and architecture transport visitors back in time, the real immersion is in the rooms, suites, and villas. Morning, noon, and night, opulent interior design merges Tuscan elegance with Renaissance glory. Cushioned headboards, high domed ceilings, and rich embroidered patterns adorn each room.

La Limonaia Villa, the Signature Suite, is an on-site cottage clustered among the monks’ old orangerie. Citrus perfumes the air as guests unwind in their private, sunken stone swimming pool and languish to a waterfall’s gurgling music. A cozy living room welcomes guests when they first step foot inside. From there, the spacious floor plan sprawls into a kitchenette, a king-sized bedroom, and a marble-carved bathroom with a tub and walk-in shower. For those who seek private wellness beyond the Fitness Centre, the villa also offers a Technogym kit with a virtual coach on the MyWellness App.

The Michelangelo Suite runs along the length of the old monastery. The largest suite at Villa San Michele, it once served as Napoleon Bonaparte’s Florence headquarters. Facing Florence’s jagged skyline and accented with sophisticated crimson decor, the 453-square-foot space offers a canopied king bed (or two twin beds upon request). At the foot of the bed is an ornate stone fireplace that swallows the entire wall, and offers a glimpse of what Napoleon saw each night before he fell asleep.

Once the Prior’s quarters, the Donatello Suite cultivates a cozy aesthetic with its hooded stone fireplace and paneled windows that open up to views of Florence and her valley below. Private gardens or terraces accompany the Garden and Junior Suites, all equipped with luxurious Acqua di Parma toiletries. Terracotta floors, historic woodwork, and Renaissance color palettes immerse guests in la dolce vita, the Tuscan way.

"To God and to Saint Michael. Niccolò de’ Davanzati had erected in 1411. Giovanni de’ Davanzati enlarged 1600."

An Experience Like No Other

While the embodiment of slow living, Villa San Michele offers no shortage of liveliness. On-site activities are always available at the swimming pool and Salus Regina Wellness Suite. The concierge’s events calendar immerses you in local culture to celebrate holidays, festivals, and food markets like a local. They can also curate exclusive, custom experiences like private Chianti wine tours, painting lessons in Florence, and mixology masterclasses to learn the art of the aperitivo cocktail.

“The Art of Making” tour showcases the craftsmen who keep tradition alive in Florence. Go behind the scenes with the timeless leather-makers of Mercato di San Lorenzo, the crystal aficionados of Ponte Vecchio, or the hand-weavers at Piazza de’ Pitti hat shops. This tour allows guests to become part of Florence’s “New Renaissance,” where one-of-a-kind Italian craftsmanship in handbags, jewelry, apparel, and more still thrives.

“Florence in An Ape Calessino” allows you to savor the City of the Baptist on the three-wheeled Ape Calessino. The preferred car in the 50s and 60s, its compact size proved efficient for Florentines transporting goods through narrow lanes and alleys. Available after 6 p.m., this custom tour reveals a special Florence after dark.

“Secret Florence” unveils a city not seen by many: hidden rooms at the Opifico delle Pietre Dure and the forgotten artifacts at the Zeffirelli Museum whisper the city’s secrets that most tourists miss.

Tuscan Tastebuds

At La Loggia, dine among the clouds with more bird’s eye views of Florence. Chef Alessandro Cozzolino’s menu spins a modern flair on the timeless Tuscan palette. With ingredients sourced from the surrounding hills, La Loggia’s tasting menus embody the sumptuous flavors of the Medici, Italy's mightiest Renaissance family. Begin this culinary dream with Legami, “Between Vices and Quirks.” Highlights include Shrimp with lemon, mustard grains, and acacia honey; Agnolotti, a rare dish of scorpionfish, burrata, and cardamom; and Piccion…cino, pigeon, eggplants, strawberries, and Prato vermouth.

The Sfumature menu, “In the Land of the Medicis,” sautees the flavors of the Renaissance. Amberjack: panzanella, basil, Canestrino tomato elixir; Egg Yolk Fagottini: salted cod, Maremma ricotta cheese, turmeric, oxtails; and Bischeri: The Sfumature menu, “In the Land of the Medicis,” sautees the flavors of the Renaissance. Amberjack: panzanella, basil, Canestrino tomato elixir; Egg Yolk Fagottini: salted cod, Maremma ricotta cheese, turmeric, oxtails; and Bischeri: cacciucco, Grosseto cuttlefish, pink shrimp, and green lemon are some options that sprinkle authenticity on the table.

Sensualità, “Vegetarian Sensuality,” offers something for every food preference: Round Florentine Zucchini with olives, capers, herbs, and edible flowers; Pratomagno Potato with pisanello tomato, pecorino Marzolino cheese, and salted lemon; Fieslano Saffron with Reggello pink chickpeas, semolina snails, and sweet pepper are some not-to-miss pairings.

Ristorante San Michele offers traditional lunch and fine dining options, while the poolside San Michele Grill provides the casual ambiance of an Italian barbecue and completes the villa’s diverse gastronomical journeys.

Villa San Michele opened on March 28 and will close for the season on September 30. Rooms start at €500 + vat (USD 543.92). Learn more at belmond.com/hotels/europe/italy/florence/belmond-villa-san-michele/



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