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What introduced you to your love of fine jewelry?
It is not what but who introduced me to jewelry. As a young girl, my mother would hand me her jewelry box to organize the contents. There was a mix of fabulous, signed pieces and costume jewelry. From the beginning, I was fascinated by the colors, the sparkle, the shapes, and the design. It was also my interest in where the gems came from. I knew they were from the earth, but I was fascinated by which country they were from and how they were formed. My mother was also a good educator, and she would explain the difference between a South Sea pearl and an Akoya pearl. Most of her pieces had a story and were more often than not gifted to her by my father. It all sounded so romantic and fairytale-like. I didn’t think my career would go in the jewelry and gemology direction. I thought I wanted to be a doctor, but soon, my creative side took hold. I studied fine art, art history, and psychology. When I returned to Hong Kong, where I am from, the lure of gems led me to study gemology.
Where did you study gemology?
At the time, the only place in Hong Kong that taught gemmology in English was the Asian Gemmological Institute and Laboratory (AGIL). I studied for two years full-time for the FGA, which is a Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain. It was a challenging course, and I learned so much. Dominick Mok still runs the institute and lab, and I get to see him at various conferences. He is so inspiring.
What inspired you to establish your fine jewelry brand?
After graduating from AGIL, I started designing and trading in gemstones. My dream had always been to work for Sotheby’s, and when they offered me a position in Hong Kong, I immediately accepted. I put my design ideas aside and concentrated on my career at Sotheby’s and then at Van Cleef & Arpels. I met my husband and became a hands-on mother. To keep myself busy, I resumed designing and trading. My jewelry designs and clients slowly grew from that. I’ve exhibited privately in Hong Kong and the U.K., at the NEC in Birmingham and at International Jewellery London (IJL). I enjoy working one-on-one with clients, and I’m lucky now that they seek me out. Most of my business comes via word of mouth. I get to know my clients personally, and this helps find the right piece for them. I don’t take on too many commissions. When I start creating, I’ll have a gemstone in mind. I will turn the stone over and over in my hand. I play with it, introduce other stones, and start sketching. When the piece is finished, sometimes it is hard to part with it, but I know it will eventually find a new home when it speaks to the right client. Aside from making jewelry, I am also an Independent Registered Valuer. I see beautiful heirlooms. Often I am asked to upcycle clients’ jewelry that is out of date. Jewelry should be worn and enjoyed!
Tell us about the Liverino coral workshop you attended near Naples. What are some things you learned that might benefit/influence your brand?
I had the most wonderful opportunity to travel to Torre del Greco near Naples this past March. I attended a coral seminar with participants from all over the world. We learned to identify coral from the Mediterranean, South East Asia, Mid-Way, Japan, etc. It was fascinating and a great way to connect with other jewelers and valuers. The trip was organized by Shirley Mitchell from the Jewellery Valuers Association and Rui Galopim de Carvalho, a fantastic and highly knowledgeable gemologist. Our host was Enzo Liverino, who owns the largest private collection of museum-quality coral. I came away with a new appreciation of sustainable coral and how coral is formed, and I created friendships that will last a lifetime.
What draws you to Italian coral? Do you see it merging with Mara Hotung’s aesthetic?
I purchased a few sustainable coral cabochons and look forward to creating something. They will be one of a kind. Watch this space!
What is forensic gemology, and what was the value of your recent participation in the Institute of Registered Valuers and National Association of Jewellers Conference in Birmingham?
I attend the IRV/NAJ Conference almost every year. It’s a fantastic event that connects valuers, jewelers, and gemologists under one roof over two to three days. I enjoy meeting up with colleagues and meeting new ones. It’s such a friendly group, and I always learn something new. I’ve heard Dr. Maria Macllean speak on several occasions. She is a fascinating lecturer who teaches jewelry making at Edinburgh University. She is also a consultant to the police on crime scenes where jewelry is involved. She looks at jewelry through the eyes of a detective.
How does Mara Hotung empower women through and beyond your designs?
I am grateful to all my male and female clients who wear my designs. It’s funny because when I started, I designed cufflinks with men in mind and rings, earrings, necklaces, and brooches with women in mind. Women have bought cufflinks for themselves, and so many men have purchased brooches. One of my most significant commissions was a brooch for a gentleman who has only worn the piece a few times. He displays it proudly in a showcase in his living room, like a work of art. It’s humbling, and I love that. Rings, and I mean big cocktail rings and necklaces, have also been found in the collections of my male clients. My clients surprise me all the time. I’ll have a particular client in mind and someone completely different will be interested in the piece. This is what I truly find inspiring. I create because it makes me happy and I hope it brings joy to others. It’s a meditative process, trial and error. I have to be patient and experimental. When it all comes together, the piece will find a home where it will be worn, loved, and hopefully passed on to the next generation. I’m creating a legacy and a story. That, to me, is empowering.
What are some upcoming collections, events, and other happenings Mara Hotung can tease for 2025?
I’m now cutting back on other commitments to concentrate on creating. I’ve been invited to participate in a trunk show in Hong Kong next year. I’m working on that, slowly and steadily. I am also reworking my luxury line of candles and diffusers. I’m working with a new artisanal candle maker and together we are recreating the six prominent gemstone fragrances: Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Emerald, Pearl, and Jade. It will have new scents and packaging, and all will be sustainable.
Where can we shop Mara Hotung?
I am working on a new website. However, you can still find me at gemvoyager.com or contact me directly at contact@gemvoyager.com.
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